Not two weeks in and, having read a little of Ted Hughes' Birthday Letters, I'm subject to a nagging fear that my Edinburgh is actually an American one. No civilization on earth, except arguably for Rome, has had more of a talent for projecting our culture onto that of other people's. Every day, perhaps, my wife and I walk down an airy side street next to a graveyard, overhung with birches that are just getting gold at the edges, at the black feet of the castle rock, through our own little pretend America. Or maybe I'm just overreacting to getting the Internet in our flat and going to the theatre last night to see Fame, which is the visual equivalent of drinking thirty Coca-Colas in the middle of Time Square.
The only thing that reassures me is the unstoppable tenacity of Scottish culture. For those of you who think Shakespeare has always been called "The Bard", understand now that that is Burns' title, and his poems are on the five-pound note. There is Scottish poetry written on the walls of the most seedy, illiterate pubs. They actually took the time to translate Winnie the Pooh into Scots. The preservation of their accent in a globalized culture is a kind of national institution in Scotland. And there is something very fresh about being in a country that has just gotten back its parliament, where street vandals spray-paint to walls "End London Rule", which is a sort of admirable sentiment, as opposed to adding "War" to the end of stop signs, which isn't really. What they call the Scottish Renaissance happened within the last seventy years, and everywhere, especially here in the capital, there is a feeling of national emergence propelled by art.
Tonight there is smoke rising softly from one of the chimneys of the castle. This is the first time I've seen it--a recent indian summer has given way to the more seasonable wet and cold, and apparently some custodian is feeling chilly. By night they light the walls of the flat, southerly face of it, and occasionally, as if it weren't already enormously imposing, shine spotlights up and out into the fog. It actually illuminates our living room at night. On the street the tenants of the local strip joints yell at each other, and sometimes us, if we get back late enough, and make us shiver. Black rock and cigarettes are everywhere.
If you've looked up Patrick Wolf, great. You either trust or distrust my tastes now. Whatever you decided, picture me listening to "Teignmouth" walking to school amongst the ugly high rises, which run right up to the edge of the golden-grassed hills at Holyrood park. The landscape is so dramatic as to be forceful--we'll see what it does to us.
I'll let you know if anything moves at the castle. So far, only steady steam and the gull's cries.

